Fashion in its language exists as a form of personal expression. Through clothing one can express aspirations, desires, values, aesthetics but also social and material status. In the same way, cinema, with great respect for the message that fashion can communicate, creates variety of schemes to show the impact of clothing and style.
Fashion in its language exists as a form of personal expression. Through clothing one can express aspirations, desires, values, aesthetics but also social and material status. In the same way, cinema, with great respect for the message that fashion can communicate, creates variety of schemes to show the impact of clothing and style.
A great example of movie where fashion is a powerful tool in telling a story is The Talented Mr. Ripley from 1999, directed by Anthony Minghella. The movie was nominated for five Academy Awards, including one for the Best Costume Design. In this movie, we can see that the contrast between Jude Law’s character – Dickie Greenleaf, and Matt Damon’s eponymous Tom Ripley, establishes the differences between the pairs’ backgrounds, confidence, personalities, wealth, and senses of style.
At the very beginning, it is worth mentioning the costume designers who contributed to the creation of such an exceptional picture, to which we are still returning to, even 20 years after the premiere. Ann Ruth and Gary Jones – they were responsible for creating the costumes for this film, relied on a combination of characteristic elements of Italian and American fashion of the 50s.
One of the most interesting elements in this film is men’s fashion, which continues to be an unmatched inspiration for nonchalant holiday style. Dickie Greenleaf played by Jude Law is the epitome of Italian Riviera style and chic. He wears different outfits, depending on the location, but all reveal a character with an innate sense of style, who has acclimated to his surroundings. His clothes fit him perfectly, and his accompanying accessories, such as classic sunglasses, a steel wristwatch, gold rings and a pork pie-shaped hat, add even more style.
His favorite color palette remains whites, beiges, browns, sometimes enriched with stripes. Also important are the accessories, with which Dickie completes his styling, showing off his wealth and prosperity. Sunglasses add a certain mysteriousness to the character, embedding him as the idol to the Mr. Ripley.
Dickie’s clothes were all made by John Tudor in New York — a lesser-known bespoke tailor who contributes regularly to the silver screen. “My job was to show this very well-off boy, Dickie, in Europe, on a very strict allowance, but with a sensational lifestyle,” Roth explained. “I had him in a jacket and some shorts, or a jacket and some linen trousers, and that jacket had to reflect a very rich background. And if he had one or two made in Rome, it had to look that way.”
Tom’s Ripley style is different – at least at the beginning. The audience rapidly can see that he’s new to this environment, and he’s just trying to fit in. We see him in a corduroy jacket, chinos and a white shirt on the beach in Italy. This styling shows the mismatch, even awkwardness of the character, who is lost and knows himself that he doesn’t belong there. At the same time, as we later learn, Ripley wants to change this, over time becoming more and more like his idol.
An important contrast for both characters is the use of glasses as a distinctive design elements. Ripley wears corrective eyeglasses – a very popular model in the 1950s. Square frames, in today’s opinion evoke vintage styling, then were characteristic of intellectuals of the conservative upper class. Dickie’s sunglasses, on the other hand, are a metaphor for his carefree life.
A smaller, but also important role is played in this film by women’s fashion. Admittedly, it is in the background, but it does not make us forget about it completely. Gwyneth Paltrow as Merge Sharewood shines in the glare of the Italian sun in light, rolled-up skirts that perfectly capture the aesthetics of a carefree vacation. Merge, wears patterned rompers which she pairs with white shirts and long skirts. It can be said that she fits perfectly, like Dickie, into the aesthetic of the place.
Her signature look of white shirts, tortoiseshell headbands, and floral midi-skirt has now become synonymous with relaxed summer vacation style, representing her youthful energy and innocence. However, as the story progresses and she starts to doubt Tom, her wardrobe transforms into luxurious knits and sleek trenches, as she travels from southern Italy to Rome and Venice. Eventually, she wears a striking leopard-print outfit with a matching hat, signaling a darker turn in the plot.
Cate Blanchett’s portrayal of Meredith Logue in the film showcases a more classic and elegant sense of style. Throughout the movie, Blanchett is seen wearing pastel coats, silk scarves, and beige sweater blouses, embodying a sophisticated and timeless look. Blanchett effortlessly brings to life the character of Meredith Logue with her impeccable fashion choices, adding an extra layer of glamour to the film.
Meredith exudes sophistication and elegance, while Marge gives off a carefree and bohemian vibe. Despite their distinct styles, both women remain effortlessly fashionable even after over twenty years since the movie premiered.
The Talented Mr. Ripley is certainly one of the most stylish films. I’m not just talking about the stunning production design, editing or choice of cinematography, but precisely the extremely well-chosen costumes, which realistically capture the aesthetics of the Italian towns in the 50s. The classic juxtapositions, sometimes more or less minimalist, are applicable even today, leaving this film an extremely inspiring source in terms of aesthetics and style.
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