Fashion enthusiasts and admirers of Italy have been eagerly anticipating the upcoming events scheduled at the end of February. Milan Fashion Week is renowned for showcasing some of the most highly anticipated designers in the industry. Here are the most interesting moments, that deserve to be mentioned.
Marni and their wearable works of art
After a long world tour through New York, Tokyo, and Paris, Francesco Risso and Marni have returned its home. We can surely tell that Marni Fall/Winter 2024 collection was telling a story about the real and innately human process of designing clothes. The collection delved deep into the intricacies of the design process, capturing the essence of creativity and craftsmanship in its rawest form.
Opening his show by saying, “As a child, I had no aspirations of becoming a designer,” Creative Director Francesco Risso explains the brand’s thought-process behind its latest collection, relaying how he used to treat designing fashion as something of a “raw nerve,” or an innate sensation. This was the reason why Marni has forbidden “any images or references from seeping into [its] design process,” returning to a method of design that comes naturally.
On the runway, we mostly saw earth colors, blacks and browns enhanced by leather and fur elements. The farther into the fashion show, a change dawned in the projects, with brighter creations and points alluding to animal instincts. A variety of leopard prints at one point were at the epicenter of the entire show, creating a Flintstones-style vibe. The collection culminated in final designs that stand out as much as possible. We’re talking about hand-painted creations that look like wearable works of art. Closing the collection in this way is a very interesting procedure, that makes us question the way we are inspired by things, considering the way, how whole collection was made.
Marni’s FW24 collection was called a return “to an almost animal state,” as Francesco Risso described. “In the continuous, animal act of digging towards that deepest essence, we have erased more of that which congests – all the gluttony of structure and information”, he says.
Storytelling by Antonio Marras
The designer Antonio Marras said that his passion for the stage is “insatiable, as is the idea of cross-pollination between art, cinema and fashion”. We can call him a pioneer in storytelling in fashion. Drawing inspiration from the medieval Sardinian Princess Eleonora d’Arborea, Marras embarked on a journey of historical intrigue and artistic expression.
The opulent capes and cloaks that graced Antonio Marras’ runway were a tribute to medieval opulence, evoking a sense of regal protection and lavish comfort during uncertain times. Each piece was decorated with intricate embroideries and braiding, blending brocades and floral motifs with structured checkered coats and kilts.
While some ensembles bordered on theatricality, Marras showed restraint in other designs, delivering impeccably crafted garments that epitomized his distinct aesthetic. Ethereal chiffon dresses flowed gracefully alongside structured trenches and chic pantsuits, embodying the brand’s enduring sophistication.
In an industry reliant on storytelling, Marras reaffirmed his reputation as a master storyteller and trend-setter, leaving a profound impact on Milan Fashion Week and the global fashion landscape. His collection seamlessly fused historical elements with contemporary flair, creating an unforgettable narrative for fashion fans worldwide.
Versace and the power of Donatella
“This collection has a rebel attitude and a kind heart. The woman is a good girl with a wild soul. She is prim but sexy. Don’t mess with her! The man is her soulmate, a shy genius. They are breaking the rules to make new ones. The clothes take the codes of contemporary formal tailoring and disrupt them with cut, drape, and embellishment. The collection focuses on pure lines, innovative fabrics, considered wildness. This is us. This is Versace!”
The way Donatella talks about this year’s collection tells a lot about her way of creating and identifying with the collection. The F/W collection showcases an extreme exploration of proportions, with a range of silhouettes that shift from maxi-length duster overcoats and tailored dresses to cropped, prim spencer jackets and miniskirts.
One standout trend in the collection is the juxtaposition of masculinity and femininity. Women’s looks feature tailored jackets cut into signature hourglass volumes, adding a touch of strength and structure to traditionally feminine pieces. Meanwhile, men’s looks incorporate elements of femininity, with delicate fabrics and draped silhouettes creating a sense of fluidity and grace.
What made Versace stand out on the catwalk was certainly the expressive and heavily emphasized eye makeup. Once again, we see what power on the catwalk there is in properly matching the makeup to the character and style of the collection. In this case, the makeup is not just an accessory, we perceive it more as an integral part of the collection, which fits perfectly into the aesthetic of the fashion house.
Donatella Versace showed that she channeled the spirit of a rebel with a kind heart, featuring genderless punk rock, red and black checked outerwear and edgy spiky hairstyles. She showed strength of character, like always, and that’s why she has played the main role in the Versace fashion house for over 20 years.
New 20s by Ferragamo
Maximilian Davis – creative director of the Salvatore Ferragamo fashion house, used inspiration from the 1920s to create the F/W 24/25 collection. Redefining current times is very difficult, which is why Davis uses the well-known patterns from the roaring 20s.
“The 1920s used clothing as a way to celebrate freedom,” he said in his show notes. “And that expression of freedom is something which resonates with me, with my heritage, and with Ferragamo.”
Davis showcased his talent for unique tailoring in his latest collection, where classic pieces were given a modern twist. One standout piece was a double-breasted blazer that featured a drop waist and a belt, all in a rich chocolate colour that was sure to turn heads.
Another highlight from the collection was a black jacket with a high-neck collar that had been transformed into a new, sculptural shape that defied tradition. The innovative design of this piece demonstrated Davis’ ability to push boundaries and challenge conventional silhouettes.
The unusual texture of fish scales in the case of a red or black dress and handbag is certainly one of the strongest elements of this year’s show. Also, the often-visible fringes on dresses are extremely refreshing and show that we can still have fun with fashion.
Davis’s collection showcased his love for experimenting with tailoring techniques and playing with unexpected details. Each piece was a testament to his creativity and ability to blend classic elegance with modern innovation. I’m sure that fashion enthusiasts can expect to see more exciting and unconventional designs from Davis in the future.
Giorgio Armani and flowers in the winter
Flowers in the spring-summer collection would surprise no one, but the floral motifs used in the winter collection were a unique move by Giorgio Armani himself. “There are no flowers in winter, but now here they are. I invented them. They recall happier seasons, and I like the contrast” the designer said.
The use of flora and fauna elements was an interesting combination with this year’s color palette used to create the show. These floral embellishments bloomed across the dark fabric, including strapless corset but also a delicate sheer robe. One standout piece was a shawl crafted from interconnected crystal flowers draping elegantly over silky black pants and a matching top, stealing the spotlight.
A very important element of the show was the unique hats and headscarves – also in floral arrangements, which perfectly matched the rest of the outfit. The materials used such as velvet and silk created a nostalgic feeling. The floral harps were a perfect match for the sheer thiol blouses that were paired with silk trousers. What also caught attention were the pink elements, presented in the form of a handbag or a tulle cape.
At an advanced age, fashion designer Giorgio Armani continues to prove that he is a force to be reckoned with in the industry. With a relentless drive and a wealth of creativity, Armani shows no signs of slowing down as he constantly evolves and refines his craft. His innovative approach to fashion ensures that his designs will remain relevant and timeless for years to come, solidifying his status as a fashion icon for the ages.
ART HUB 
Leave a comment