In the world of high fashion, transitions mark the end of an era and the beginning of a new chapter. Sarah Burton, after 26 remarkable years at the helm of the iconic Alexander McQueen fashion house, bid farewell in a spectacular way. Her final collection, presented during Paris Fashion Week this fall, served not only as a testament to her creative prowess but also as a heartfelt tribute to the influential Polish artist, Magdalena Abakanowicz.
Sarah Burton’s journey in the world of fashion began under the guidance of her mentor, Lee McQueen, who introduced her to the grandeur of haute couture. Following McQueen’s tragic demise, Burton seamlessly stepped into the role of creative director, navigating immense pressure with grace. Her designs earned accolades from style icons such as Princess Kate and Beyoncé, solidifying her status as a visionary in the fashion industry.
For her final collection, Burton found inspiration in the works of Magdalena Abakanowicz. She first encountered Abakanowicz’s works during the exhibition Magdalena Abakanowicz: Every Tangle Of Thread And Rope at the Tate Modern in London. According to Aneta Dalbiak, the director of the Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź, as mentioned in an interview with Polish Vogue, Burton expressed at that time that the artist’s creations resonated with the concept of her spring collection and the overall idea behind the fashion show.
Magdalena Abakanowicz, born in Poland in 1930, lived through the turbulent events of the 20th century, including World War II and the subsequent Soviet occupation. This period of adversity didn’t deter Abakanowicz from pursuing her passion for art. She eventually earned recognition as one of the most prominent sculptors of her time, becoming a trailblazing figure in contemporary sculpture.
Abakanowicz’s innovative approach to sculpture involved using unconventional materials and techniques. Before gaining admission to art school, critics doubted her potential as a sculptor. However, she defied expectations by entering the world of sculpture through the medium of weaving, an unconventional path that would later become a hallmark of her distinctive style. Her breakthrough works, “Abakans,” large woven forms resembling monumental textiles, gained international acclaim.
Motifs beloved by Abakanowicz were merged into exaggerated coats, jackets with voluminous shoulders, and deconstructed dresses, creating a stunning visual narrative that paid homage to the sculptor’s legacy. The entire collection maintained a color palette consisting of red, black, white, silver, and gold. This not only infused the collection with elegance but also heightened its uniqueness, perfectly capturing the essence of the brand.
The Paris Fashion Week presentation was a grand affair, opened by the graceful Kaia Gerber and closed by the legendary Naomi Campbell. Among the captivated audience were notable figures like Anna Wintour, Cate Blanchett, Eva Green, Elle Fanning, Yara Shahidi, and other devoted fans of Sarah Burton’s designs.
However, the influence of Abakanowicz’s creativity was not only evident in the captivating garments presented by the models. In the Parisian venue, Le Carreau du Temple, where the show took place, original works by Magdalena Abakanowicz were also prominently displayed, borrowed from the Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź. These included two parts of the immense Monumental Composition (installation, woven sculpture, 1973–75, on deposit from the Museum of the Origins of the Polish State in Gniezno) and Black Garment VI (1976, part of the CMWŁ – Central Museum of Textiles in Łódź collection). They were showcased in a specially constructed, well-lit space, featuring two circular platforms inside which the works of the Polish artist were placed, creating unique backdrop for the show, transforming the runway into a living gallery.
As Sarah Burton takes her leave from the beloved Alexander McQueen fashion house, her final collection stands as a poignant fusion of her own artistic brilliance and the revolutionary spirit of Magdalena Abakanowicz. The runway served as a canvas where two creative worlds converged, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion landscape and cementing Burton’s legacy as a visionary designer who paid homage to the trailblazers who came before her. Magdalena Abakanowicz’s enduring impact on the art world continues to inspire and shape the creative landscape for generations to come.
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